Saturday, March 31, 2012

RARE VINTAGE COLLECTIBLE GuB GLASHUTTE Q1 GENTS WATCH


BRAND/JENAMA : GuB GLASHUTTE Q1 SSTDSSICHERT
MODEL :CHRONOMETER GRADE Q1
MOVEMENT/ENJIN :SUPERB 26 RUBIES GLASHUTTE GUB AUTOMATIC MOVEMENT CAL.60.3
ORIGIN/BUATAN : GERMANY
NO. SIRI/SERIAL NO. : 050600
CIRCA/TAHUN : 1960's
CRYSTAL : ACCRYLIC, MINOR CRACKED AT 6:00
CASING/KEMASAN : 20 MICRON ROSE GOLD PLATED & STAINLESS STEEL BACK
FUNCTION/FUNGSI : HOUR, MINUTES, SECOND,
DIAL: CHAMPAGNE WITH NICE CRACKED PATINA
CROWN: UNSIGNED GP CROWN
BEZEL: -
MARKINGS/TANDA JENAMA : DIAL, CASEBACK, MOVEMENT
BAND/TALI :
NEW GENUINE BROWN LEATHER BAND FIT 8" WRIST
HIDDEN LUGS SIZE: 20mm
BAND WIDTH: 20mm
LENS/CERMIN : ACCRYLIC CRYSTAL
MEASUREMENT/UKURAN : 36mm W/O CROWN X 42mm LUG TO LUG
WATER RESISTANT: NOT STATED
CONDITION/KONDISI : COLLECTORS' ITEM- EXCELLENT WORKING CONDITION AND KEEPING TIME
PRICE/HARGA:RM3000 (NEGOTIABLE)
ISTING: RM SOLD:

Brief History of Glashutte Watches

Glashutte Original was created in 1845, when the German master watchmakers, Ferdiand Al Lange, Julius Assmann, Ludwig Strasser, Johannes Durrstein, Adolf Schneider, Strasser and Rohde, Ernst Kassiske settled in the region of Glasshutte. These master watchmakers were awarded various gold model at the world exhibition and international competitions, thus creating the foundation and reputation of watching making industry of Glashutte. In 1878, Moritz Grossmann founded the German School of Watchmaking, hence building groundwork for more skillful watchmakers in the region of Glashutte and transforming the region into a reputed symbol of watchmaking excellence.

In the beginning of World War II, the watch manufactories in Glasutte was still in the production of military watches for the Navy and Air Force. Later, in the last day of War World II, Glashutte was bombed from the sky and the factories were badly destroyed. The reminding unaffected factories merged and found the VEB Glashutter Uhrenbetriebe under the rule of East German state.

HISTORY OF GLASHUTTER UHRENBETRIEB (GUB)

Compares the pictures of Glashuette Original movements in older catalogues with those printed in the recent ones, the different movement designations are immediately evident: The older watches are equipped with the movement cal. 10-30, whereas the newer ones have the cal. 39. However, aside from the drastically improved optical finish, the two movements seem to be the same: the same wheels and the same screws seem to be located in the same places on both movements. So where are the differences that justify that new designation, or is this just a try to cheat, to pretend a new movement where there is none?

When the communist German Democratic Republic found its end as a souvereign state, the state-owned “Glashuetter Uhrenbetrieb(GuB) was busy developing a new selfwinding movement. Solid it should be, and efficient. Before the works could be finished, the company was sold to the French movement manufacturer France Ebauches SA. This company tried to save itself from bankruptcy by means of German know-how and the cheap labour in Eastern Germany. The new selfwinding movement should compete with the Swiss movements produced by ETA, and was therefore developed specifically with a high momentum and maximum universality in mind. Before the short-time owner of the Glashuette watch manufactory had to develop a new movement, they found already a good movement in Glashuette: In 1978, the V.E.B. ("Volkseigener Betrieb" = People's owned company) Glashuetter Uhrenbetriebe (GUB) brought out their last completely new construction, the cal. 11-26, dubbed Spezichron.

This Spezichron was modernized in several steps under control of first the France Ebauches, then the Treuhand-Anstalt, and finally of Heinz W. Pfeifer, until it found its way as cal. 10-30 into the new watches of Glashuette Original. Under control of the Treuhandanstalt, which, from 1990 to 1994, took over the former East German state-owned companies and sought to bring them into the private sector, the movement cal. 10-30 was completed and used in a new and very cheap line of watches after 1993.

The Spezichron cal. 11-27 movement was the successor of the popular "Spezimatic", which was produced from 1964 until 1980. Compared to the Spezimatic, the new Spezichron was smaller and faster: 28,800 A/h, while the Spezimatic only had 18,000. With that movement, the East German GUB could compete with the common movements of Swiss origins. The Spezichron was solid and accurate. Additionally, a version with weekday display was made; it was designated cal. 11-27.

Yet there were plans for more complications, which could not be based on the trusted 10-30 movement; a new development was necessary. However, it was neither economically feasible nor desirable to have completely new cases and dials produced for the new base movement. Therefore, the starting point of the effort was the condition, that the new movement had the same dimensions, as well as the location of important parts, such as the winding stem, must be the same as in the old 10-30. Additionally, the planned new complication modules should have enough space on the movement’s front.

All elements of the 10-30 movement, which were tried and reliable, were taken over into the new construction, above all the complete escapement was transferred. Even these parts were refined, however, with the addition of a swan neck adjustement, for example. The result of the development was the new cal. 39 movement, which from the outside, looked like the old 10-30. Yet of the originally 130 parts, only 17 remained unchanged. The new movement had more jewels, a better adjustment, and, above all, a better ability to wear additional complication modules.

With the 10-30, every module had to be autonomous; that means, that each module had to consist of an upper an a lower baseplate, so that the final movement had four plate layers. The new cal. 39 movement was constructed in a way that its upper baseplate could serve as the lower base of the module, resulting in a “sandwich” of only three plate layers. This saves space which can be used for more complicated modules.

Finally, the optical qualities of the new movement were drastically improved: skeletonized rotor, finely grinded wheels, angled plates and teeth, the decoration work entirely done by hand. In spite of the still solid base of a movement designed to compete with the ETA-workhorses, the Glashuette Original cal. 39 without doubt is one of the finest selfwinding movements on the market.

The cal. 26 movement found in the watches of UNION/Glashuette, is based on that cal. 39 movement, but is changed in two essential ways: It consists of 12 parts less than its GO counterpart (mainly in the fine adjustement area), and its decoration is mostly machine-made. This saves a lot of money and enables UNION, to offer fine inhouse movements in well-made, competitively priced watches.

This movement was the successor of the popular "Spezimatic", which was produced from 1964 until 1980. Compared to the Spezimatic, the new Spezichron was smaller and faster: 28,800 A/h, while the Spezimatic only had 18,000. With that movement, the East German GUB could compete with the common movements of Swiss origins. The Spezichron was solid and accurate. Additionally, a version with weekday display was made; it was designated cal. 11-27.

A year later, in 1994, the company was bought by Heinz W. Pfeifer, and immediately the cal. 10-30 was thoroughly revised in order to equip high-class watches. More than 60 changes were made, until the movement, which internally was designated cal. 10-30/2, was used for the then new “Klassik”-line. However, the movement’s potential for refinement was exhausted. It was used in all self-winding Glashuette Original watches, including the chronographs, which added a chrono module to the base movement.

Yet there were plans for more complications, which could not be based on the trusted 10-30 movement; a new development was necessary. However, it was neither economically feasible nor desirable to have completely new cases and dials produced for the new base movement. Therefore, the starting point of the effort was the condition, that the new movement had the same dimensions, as well as the location of important parts, such as the winding stem, must be the same as in the old 10-30. Additionally, the planned new complication modules should have enough space on the movement’s front.

Thursday, March 29, 2012

AUNTHENTIC ANDRE LE MANQUAND "SPACEMAN" TRESSA LUX JUMP HOUR WRISTWATCH (SOLD)


VERY RARE COLLECTION - AUTHENTIC VINTAGE SPACEMAN BY TRESSA LUX JUMP HOUR GENTS WRISTWATCH


MADE IN/BUATAN: SWISS

CIRCA/TAHUN: 1970's

MODEL: SPACEMAN JUMP HOUR

CRYSTAL/CERMIN: ACCRYLIC

MOVEMENT/ENJIN: SWISS AUTOMATIC 17J MOVEMENT

DIAL COLOR: GREEN DIAL

FUNCTION/FUNGSI: HOUR,AND MINUTES, DAY AND DATE

HANDS/JARUM: ORANGE

MARKERS/TANDA WAKTU: ORANGE

CASING : DUPONT RUBBER ON STAINLESS STEEL

BEZEL: DUPONT RUBBER ON TAINLESS STEEL

LUGS: 24mm

MEASUREMENT/UKURAN: 42mm DIAMETER EXCLUDING CROWN and 34mm LUG TO LUG

DITANDA/ENGARVED BACK CASING: -

CROWN: ORIGINAL CROWN

STRAP/TALI: ORIGINAL SPACEMAN DUPONT RUBBER ON STEEL BAND - SOME SCRATCHES ON CERTAIN PART OF THE BAND

SIZE STRAP/SAIZ TALI: 8.5"

CONDITION: WORKING AND KEEPING TIME, EXCELLENT CONDITION

MY PRICE/HARGA : (SOLD TO TN SHEIKH FROM PJ)

SOLD RM1225



BRIEF INFORMATION ON LEMARQUAND SPACEMAN RETRO WRISTWATCH BY TRESSA LUX


Andre LeMarquand is one of the biggest designers of the XXth century. His “Spaceman” is a cult item for all collectors. Designed as an astronaut helmet – a tribute to the first landing on the moon – it was shown to the public in 1972 at the famous Basel Fair by the Catena watch company. It was a hit almost like the Swatch 10 years later and as a unisex watch it was worn in the colorful 1970’s by men and women. The watch was so popular that even more known companies ordered them with their logo on the dial (Fortis, Jules Jurgensen, Zeno). Andre LeMarquand is until today creating his watches is his small family factory in Bulle, Switzerland and his shops are located in the USA, Arab Emirates and Russia. Read more about LeMarquand on the company website.


The Spaceman not only contains the highest grade 17j. or selfwinding 25j. AS movements but also the materials are very high quality. The case is made of durable light fibreglass which was used in the 1960/70’s almost exclusively in the spaceindustry. The strap is made of semi-leather durable material called Corfam® by Dupont, which was used on astronaut spacesuits. It’s almost like leather but is very strong yet remains elastic and comfortable. The movement has a detachable stem and is taken out through the glass, while the strap is held in the case with a chromeplated steel ring with a color mask

THIS IS MY PERSONAL COLLECTION - RETAIL PRICE FOR THIS PREOWNED IS GBP550.00



RARE COLLECTORS' ITEM - JAEGER LE COULTRE FUTUREMATIC POWER RESERVED GENTS WRISTWATCH (SOLD)


BRAND/JENAMA: AUTHENTIC VINTAGE JAEGER LECOULTRE FUTUREMATIC GENTS WRISTWATCH
MADE IN/BUATAN: SWISS
CIRCA/TAHUN: 1950's
MODEL: POWER RESERVED - FUTUREMATIC
CRYSTAL/CERMIN: ACRYLIC
MOVEMENT/ENJIN: JAEGER LECOULTRE 17 JEWELS AUTOMATIC BUMPER MOVEMENT- CAL.497
DIAL COLOR: EGG SHELL TONE WITH POWER RESERVED DIAL AT 9:00
FUNCTION/FUNGSI: POWER RESERVED, HOUR, MINUTE AND SUB-SECOND DIAL AT 3:00
HANDS/JARUM: GOLD TONE METAL HANDS
MARKERS/TANDA WAKTU: RAISED GOLD TONE ARROW HEAD MARKERS
CASING : 10K GOLD FILLED
LUGS: 18mm
MEASUREMENT/UKURAN: 35mm WIDE and 44mm LUG TO LUG
BEZEL: 10K GOLD FILLED
DITANDA/ENGARVED BACK CASING: -
CROWN: NO SIDE CROWN - HAND ADJUSTED USING BACK BUTTON AT CASE BACK
STRAP/TALI: NEW BROWN LEATHER/TEXTILE BAND
SIZE STRAP/SAIZ TALI: 8.5" FULL LENGHT

DISCONTINUED LECOULTRE MODEL... RAREST!
EXCELLENT CONDITION, KEEPING GOODTIME AND RECENTLY SERVICED
PRICE/HARGA: SOLD (To Mohammed from India)
SOLD FOR RM
A BRIEF HISTORY OF LE COULTRE WATCHES
A brilliant inventor and self-taught watchmaker, Antoine-LeCoultre founded his first workshop in 1833, following the invention of a machine to produce watchmaking pinions. Ever since, the Manufacture Jaeger-Lecoultre has developed constantly around the founder's original workshops.
Surprisingly enough, it was neither a physicist nor an engineer who first measured the micron; it was Antoine LeCoultre, in 1844. He had created watch components that were so perfect no tool could actually detect their degree of inaccuracy. He followed that up by inventing the world's most accurate instrument: the Millionometer, which served as a benchmark for over half a century.
In 1847, LeCoultre created a revolutionary system that was to do away with the need for keys to rewind and set watches. His simple and brilliant solution was a pushbutton that activated a lever to switch from one function to another. It was the first keyless winding mechanism, and the first reliable system that eliminated the need for keys to wind or set a watch.
In 1866, when Swiss watchmaking was still structured around small home-run workshops, Antoine LeCoultre and his son Elie decided to bring together under one rood the many skills involved in making watches, and installed a steam-driven machine to operate their new tools. LeCoultre & Cie thus became the first Manufacture in the Vallée de Joux.
It was in 1903 when the Parisian Edmond Jaeger set Swiss watchmakers the challenge of producing ultra-thin calibres. It would lead to the Calibre 145, the world's thinnest mechanical movement, measuring no more than 1.38 mm, and the friendship of Antoine LeCoultre's grandson, Jacques-Devid LeCoultre. These two men would give a rise to a range of horological wonders, and eventually the birth of the Jaeger-LeCoultre brand in 1937.
In the year 1908, the Manufacture created its first rectangular-shaped calibre in response to the challenge created to miniaturize watches to wear on the wrist. By the "Roaring 20s" (1920s), very small ladies' wristwatches were all the rage, but extreme miniaturization always led to a loss of reliability and precision. The Duoplan brilliantly solved this problem by arranging its parts on split levels. It would lead to the world's smallest movement, Calibre 101. Outdoing the Calibre 145, Jaeger-Lecoultre miniaturized the Duoplan caliber to the extreme, weighing in at barely one gram and comprising of 74 parts. Its record is still unmatched to this date.
Since its founding, the Manufacture has created and produced over 1,000 different calibres in many varieties. Over 200 patented inventions have contributed to the progress of Swiss watchmaking in the field of movements, as well as that of cases, bracelets, dials, and watch functions.

AUTHENTIC VINTAGE LECOULTRE GENTS WRISTWATCH



BRAND/JENAMA: AUTHENTIC VINTAGE LECOULTRE GENTS WRISTWATCH
MADE IN/BUATAN: SWISS
CIRCA/TAHUN: 1960's
MODEL: DRESS
CRYSTAL/CERMIN: ACRYLIC - CLEAN
MOVEMENT/ENJIN: LECOULTRE AXN 17 JEWELS MANUAL WINDING MOVEMENT CAL. 460 C/W
DIAL: CHAMPAGNE CREAM TONE WITH SUB SECOND AT 6:00
HANDS/JARUM: GOLD TONE HANDS
MARKERS/TANDA WAKTU: RAISED GOLD TONE ARROW HEAD AND ARABIC MARKERS
CASING : 10K GOLD FILLED
LUGS: 18mm
MEASUREMENT/UKURAN: 36mm DIAMETER WITH CROWN and 43mm LUG TO LUG
BEZEL: 10K GOLD ILLED
DITANDA/ENGARVED BACK CASING: -
CROWN: ORIGINAL UNSIGNED GP CROWN
STRAP/TALI: GP FLEXI BAND
SIZE STRAP/SAIZ TALI: 8.5" FULL LENGHT
DISCONTINUED LECOULTRE MODEL...
EXCELLENT CONDITION, KEEPING GOODTIME AND RECENTLY SERVICED
PRICE/HARGA: USD1100 (NEGOTIABLE)
LISTING USD1100 SOLD: RM
A BRIEF HISTORY OF LE COULTRE WATCHES
A brilliant inventor and self-taught watchmaker, Antoine-LeCoultre founded his first workshop in 1833, following the invention of a machine to produce watchmaking pinions. Ever since, the Manufacture Jaeger-Lecoultre has developed constantly around the founder's original workshops.
Surprisingly enough, it was neither a physicist nor an engineer who first measured the micron; it was Antoine LeCoultre, in 1844. He had created watch components that were so perfect no tool could actually detect their degree of inaccuracy. He followed that up by inventing the world's most accurate instrument: the Millionometer, which served as a benchmark for over half a century.
In 1847, LeCoultre created a revolutionary system that was to do away with the need for keys to rewind and set watches. His simple and brilliant solution was a pushbutton that activated a lever to switch from one function to another. It was the first keyless winding mechanism, and the first reliable system that eliminated the need for keys to wind or set a watch.
In 1866, when Swiss watchmaking was still structured around small home-run workshops, Antoine LeCoultre and his son Elie decided to bring together under one rood the many skills involved in making watches, and installed a steam-driven machine to operate their new tools. LeCoultre & Cie thus became the first Manufacture in the Vallée de Joux.
It was in 1903 when the Parisian Edmond Jaeger set Swiss watchmakers the challenge of producing ultra-thin calibres. It would lead to the Calibre 145, the world's thinnest mechanical movement, measuring no more than 1.38 mm, and the friendship of Antoine LeCoultre's grandson, Jacques-Devid LeCoultre. These two men would give a rise to a range of horological wonders, and eventually the birth of the Jaeger-LeCoultre brand in 1937.
In the year 1908, the Manufacture created its first rectangular-shaped calibre in response to the challenge created to miniaturize watches to wear on the wrist. By the "Roaring 20s" (1920s), very small ladies' wristwatches were all the rage, but extreme miniaturization always led to a loss of reliability and precision. The Duoplan brilliantly solved this problem by arranging its parts on split levels. It would lead to the world's smallest movement, Calibre 101. Outdoing the Calibre 145, Jaeger-Lecoultre miniaturized the Duoplan caliber to the extreme, weighing in at barely one gram and comprising of 74 parts. Its record is still unmatched to this date.

RARE COLLECTORS' ITEM - JAEGER LE COULTRE FUTUREMATIC POWER RESERVED GENTS WRISTWATCH


BRAND/JENAMA: AUTHENTIC VINTAGE JAEGER LECOULTRE FUTUREMATIC GENTS WRISTWATCH

MADE IN/BUATAN: SWISS

CIRCA/TAHUN: 1950's

MODEL: POWER RESERVED - FUTUREMATIC

CRYSTAL/CERMIN: ACRYLIC

MOVEMENT/ENJIN: JAEGER LECOULTRE 17 JEWELS AUTOMATIC BUMPER MOVEMENT- CAL.497

DIAL COLOR: CHAMPAGNE TONE WITH POWER RESERVED DIAL AT 9:00

FUNCTION/FUNGSI: POWER RESERVED, HOUR, MINUTE AND SUB-SECOND DIAL AT 3:00

HANDS/JARUM: GOLD TONE METAL HANDS

MARKERS/TANDA WAKTU: RAISED GOLD TONE BATON MARKERS

CASING : 10K GOLD FILLED

LUGS: 18mm

MEASUREMENT/UKURAN: 35mm WIDE and 44mm LUG TO LUG

BEZEL: 10K GOLD FILLED

DITANDA/ENGARVED BACK CASING: -

CROWN: NO SIDE CROWN - HAND ADJUSTED USING BACK BUTTON AT CASE BACK

STRAP/TALI: NEW BROWN LEATHER/TEXTILE BAND

SIZE STRAP/SAIZ TALI: 8.5" FULL LENGHT

DISCONTINUED LECOULTRE MODEL... RAREST!

EXCELLENT CONDITION, KEEPING GOODTIME AND RECENTLY SERVICED

PRICE/HARGA: USD1,000 (NEGOTIABLE)

SOLD FOR RM

A BRIEF HISTORY OF LE COULTRE WATCHES

A brilliant inventor and self-taught watchmaker, Antoine-LeCoultre founded his first workshop in 1833, following the invention of a machine to produce watchmaking pinions. Ever since, the Manufacture Jaeger-Lecoultre has developed constantly around the founder's original workshops.

Surprisingly enough, it was neither a physicist nor an engineer who first measured the micron; it was Antoine LeCoultre, in 1844. He had created watch components that were so perfect no tool could actually detect their degree of inaccuracy. He followed that up by inventing the world's most accurate instrument: the Millionometer, which served as a benchmark for over half a century.

In 1847, LeCoultre created a revolutionary system that was to do away with the need for keys to rewind and set watches. His simple and brilliant solution was a pushbutton that activated a lever to switch from one function to another. It was the first keyless winding mechanism, and the first reliable system that eliminated the need for keys to wind or set a watch.

In 1866, when Swiss watchmaking was still structured around small home-run workshops, Antoine LeCoultre and his son Elie decided to bring together under one rood the many skills involved in making watches, and installed a steam-driven machine to operate their new tools. LeCoultre & Cie thus became the first Manufacture in the Vallée de Joux.

It was in 1903 when the Parisian Edmond Jaeger set Swiss watchmakers the challenge of producing ultra-thin calibres. It would lead to the Calibre 145, the world's thinnest mechanical movement, measuring no more than 1.38 mm, and the friendship of Antoine LeCoultre's grandson, Jacques-Devid LeCoultre. These two men would give a rise to a range of horological wonders, and eventually the birth of the Jaeger-LeCoultre brand in 1937.

In the year 1908, the Manufacture created its first rectangular-shaped calibre in response to the challenge created to miniaturize watches to wear on the wrist. By the "Roaring 20s" (1920s), very small ladies' wristwatches were all the rage, but extreme miniaturization always led to a loss of reliability and precision. The Duoplan brilliantly solved this problem by arranging its parts on split levels. It would lead to the world's smallest movement, Calibre 101. Outdoing the Calibre 145, Jaeger-Lecoultre miniaturized the Duoplan caliber to the extreme, weighing in at barely one gram and comprising of 74 parts. Its record is still unmatched to this date.

Since its founding, the Manufacture has created and produced over 1,000 different calibres in many varieties. Over 200 patented inventions have contributed to the progress of Swiss watchmaking in the field of movements, as well as that of cases, bracelets, dials, and watch functions.