JACK'S TREASURE CHEST OF TIME PIECES

Sunday, November 1, 2026

AUTHENTIC VINTAGE 10K GOLD FILLED LECOULTRE SUB SECOND GENTS WRISTWATCH

BRAND/JENAMA: AUTHENTIC VINTAGE 10K GOLD FILLED LECOULTRE SUB SECOND GENTS WRISTWATCH

MADE IN/BUATAN: SWISS

CIRCA/TAHUN: 1950's

MODEL: DRESS

CRYSTAL/CERMIN: ACRYLIC

MOVEMENT/ENJIN: LECOULTRE 17 JEWELS MANUAL WINDING INHOUSE MOVEMENT Cal.480CW

DIAL COLOR: CHAMPAGNE GOLD

FUNCTION/FUNGSI: DRESS WATCH

HANDS/JARUM: GOLD TONE

MARKERS/TANDA WAKTU: GOLD TONE ARROW AND ARABIC MARKERS

CASING : 10K GOLD FILLED

LUGS: 16mm

MEASUREMENT/UKURAN: 33mm DIAMETER INCLUDING CROWN and 36mm LUG TO LUG

BEZEL: 10K GOLD FILLED BEZEL

DITANDA/ENGARVED BACK CASING

CROWN: ORIGINAL CROWN

STRAP/TALI: GENUINE SPIEDEL GOLD FILLED STREHT BRACELET

SIZE STRAP/SAIZ TALI: 8.5" FULL LENGHT

DISCONTINUED LECOULTRE MODEL... RARE!

EXCELLENT CONDITION, KEEPING GOODTIME AND RECENTLY SERVICED

PRICE/HARGA: USD1200 (NEGOTIABLE)

A BRIEF HISTORY OF LE COULTRE WATCHES

A brilliant inventor and self-taught watchmaker, Antoine-LeCoultre founded his first workshop in 1833, following the invention of a machine to produce watchmaking pinions. Ever since, the Manufacture Jaeger-Lecoultre has developed constantly around the founder's original workshops.

Surprisingly enough, it was neither a physicist nor an engineer who first measured the micron; it was Antoine LeCoultre, in 1844. He had created watch components that were so perfect no tool could actually detect their degree of inaccuracy. He followed that up by inventing the world's most accurate instrument: the Millionometer, which served as a benchmark for over half a century.

In 1847, LeCoultre created a revolutionary system that was to do away with the need for keys to rewind and set watches. His simple and brilliant solution was a pushbutton that activated a lever to switch from one function to another. It was the first keyless winding mechanism, and the first reliable system that eliminated the need for keys to wind or set a watch.

In 1866, when Swiss watchmaking was still structured around small home-run workshops, Antoine LeCoultre and his son Elie decided to bring together under one rood the many skills involved in making watches, and installed a steam-driven machine to operate their new tools. LeCoultre & Cie thus became the first Manufacture in the Vallée de Joux.

It was in 1903 when the Parisian Edmond Jaeger set Swiss watchmakers the challenge of producing ultra-thin calibres. It would lead to the Calibre 145, the world's thinnest mechanical movement, measuring no more than 1.38 mm, and the friendship of Antoine LeCoultre's grandson, Jacques-Devid LeCoultre. These two men would give a rise to a range of horological wonders, and eventually the birth of the Jaeger-LeCoultre brand in 1937.

In the year 1908, the Manufacture created its first rectangular-shaped calibre in response to the challenge created to miniaturize watches to wear on the wrist. By the "Roaring 20s" (1920s), very small ladies' wristwatches were all the rage, but extreme miniaturization always led to a loss of reliability and precision. The Duoplan brilliantly solved this problem by arranging its parts on split levels. It would lead to the world's smallest movement, Calibre 101. Outdoing the Calibre 145, Jaeger-Lecoultre miniaturized the Duoplan caliber to the extreme, weighing in at barely one gram and comprising of 74 parts. Its record is still unmatched to this date.

Since its founding, the Manufacture has created and produced over 1,000 different calibres in many varieties. Over 200 patented inventions have contributed to the progress of Swiss watchmaking in the field of movements, as well as that of cases, bracelets, dials, and watch functions.

Friday, October 16, 2026

AUTHENTIC VINTAGE GRUEN PRECISION DAYDATE GENTS WRISTWATC

BRAND/JENAMA: AUTHENTIC VINTAGE GRUEN PRECISION DAYDATE GENTS WRISTWATCH

MADE IN/BUATAN: SWISS

CIRCA/TAHUN: 1960's

MODEL: DAYDATE PRECISION

CRYSTAL/CERMIN: ACRYLIC

MOVEMENT/ENJIN: SWISS GRUEN 25 JEWELS AUTOMATIC WINDING MOVEMENT CAL. 790CD SA

DIAL COLOR: CHAMPAGNE SUNBURST DIAL

FUNCTION/FUNGSI: HOUR, MINUTE, SWIPE CENTER SECOND, RED DAY AND DATE AT 3:00

HANDS/JARUM: GOLD TONE LUMINESCENT DAUPHANE HANDS

MARKERS/TANDA WAKTU: BATON RAISED MARKERS

CASING : GOLD PLATED TOP AND STAINLESS STEEL BACK - 34mm with crown and 38mm lug to lug

LUGS: 18mm

CROWN: GP

DITANDA/ENGARVED BACK CASING: GRUEN PRECISION, STAINLESS STEEL CASE

STRAP/TALI: GENUINE BROWN LEATHER BAND

SIZE STRAP/SAIZ TALI: 8.5"

WORKING CONDITION, KEEPING TIME, DISCONTINUED MODEL & HARD TO FIND

PRICE/HARGA: USD200 (NEGOTIABLE)

Gruen Watch Company

On June 12, 1874 Dietrich Gruen applied for a patent on an improved safety pinion, which was granted on December 22. He was 27 years old

In 1894, Fred Gruen and Dietrich Gruen decided to try to start a new watch company. Using money borrowed from friends and relatives, Dietrich and Fred formed the partnership "D. Gruen and Son.".

These first Gruen watches are of very high quality and are beautifully made. Both 18 and 16 size versions were manufactured, each in both open face and hunter styles, and in 18- and 21-jewel versions. The earliest D. Gruen & Son serial numbers started around 62000. The Gruens dealt directly with individual jewelry stores; there were no wholesalers or jobbers involved in the distribution of their watches.

In 1898 George Gruen joined the firm as treasurer and financial officer. The company incorporated and its name changed to D. Gruen, Sons & Company.

In 1903 Gruen introduces its "VeriThin" line of watches.

In 1908 Gruen introduced both men's and women's wristwatches. These proved popular only with women. Gruen was one of a very few companies to take wristwatches seriously this early, seeing their potential in spite of disappointing early sales to male customers.

Thursday, October 8, 2026

AUTHENTIC VINTAGE GRUEN PRECISION STAIR TEARDROP LUGS GENTS

BRAND: AUTHENTIC VINTAGE GRUEN PRECISION STAIR TEARDROP LUGS GENTS WRISTWATCH

MADE IN: SWISS

CIRCA/TAHUN: 1950's

MODEL: ART DRESS

CRYSTAL: ACRYLIC

MOVEMENT: SWISS 17 JEWELS MANUAL WINDING GRUEN CAL.452SS

DIAL COLOR: GOLD CHAMPAGNE

FUNCTION: HOUR, MINUTE, SWIPE SECOND

HANDS: GOLD DAUPHANE HANDS

MARKERS: RAISED GOLD TONE STICK MARKERS

CASING : BASE BEZEL 10K GF and STAINLESS STEEL BACK - 36mm with crown and 40mm lug to lug

LUGS: 18mm

CROWN: GP UNSIGNED CROWN

BACK CASE INSCRIPTION: GRUEN, SWISS MOVEMENT, GOLD FILLED BEZEL, STAINLESS STEEL BACK

STRAP: GENUINE BLACK LEATHER BAND

STRAP SIZE: 8.5"

WORKING CONDITION, KEEPING TIME, DISCONTINUED MODEL & HARD TO FIND

PRICE: USD250 (NEGOTIABLE)

HISTORY OF GRUEN WATCHES

In 1908 Gruen introduced both men's and women's wristwatches. These proved popular only with women. Gruen was one of a very few companies to take wristwatches seriously this early, seeing their potential in spite of disappointing early sales to male customers.

Gruen made both wrist and pocket watches for the military during World War I. Most had silver cases, which would tarnish but would not corrode under adverse conditions. To satisfy U.S. military regulations, these watches all have luminous dial markings and hands.

1911 Dietrich Gruen dies suddenly. Fred Gruen takes control of the company.

In 1913 the company purchased Nanny Goat Hill, a pasture just outside of Cincinnati, and renamed it Time Hill. Work began on a new building designed by architect Guy C. Burroughs at a construction cost estimated at $50,000 USD. The company moved to the new location in 1917.

1921: Gruen introduces The Cartouche wrist watch calling it "The logical wrist watch shape".

1922: Gruen introduces "The Pentagon" pocket watch. "the Croix de Guerre of American achievement"

Up until 1922 there had actually been three Gruen companies: D. Gruen, Sons & Company; The Gruen National Watch Case Company of Cincinnati; and The Gruen Watch Manufacturing Company of Biel, Switzerland. In 1922 all three businesses were merged to form the Gruen Watch Company, with Fred as President.

In 1924, Gruen released a special pocket watch in an edition of 600 to commemorate their 50th anniversary. The watch cost $500 at the time.

In 1925, Gruen introduced the men's Quadron. These were rectangular watches containing very high-quality 15-j or 17-j tonneau-shaped movements.

In 1928 Gruen releases The Techni-Quadron. The famous Techni-Quadron "doctor's watches" are so-called because the large seconds dial was handy for timing a patient's pulse.

In 1935 Fred Gruen, now 63 years old, became Chairman of the Board and Benjamin S. Katz was brought in as President of the Gruen Watch Company. In 1935, Gruen was about $1.8 million USD (roughly $36 million USD today) in debt; nervous stockholders and investors were behind the change. Fred would retire in 1940, but continued to sit on the board for the rest of his life.

In 1935 Gruen introduces the most famous Gruen wristwatch- "The Curvex". These watches are one of the greatest examples of 1930s streamlined design.

1937: Gruen introduces "The Ristside" or "driver's" watches.

In 1938, continuing the success of their VeriThin pocket watches, Gruen also launched a series of Veri-Thin wristwatches. Contemporary Curvex and Veri-Thin movements often are closely related, and can share many parts. By the 1940s, most Gruen wristwatches were either Veri-Thin or Curvex models.

Although Gruen did not manufacture watches for the U.S. military, they offered the public a collection of eight military-style watches, to be used as personal watches.

In 1949, the company introduced their first watches made entirely in the U.S., a line of 21-jewel men's models called the "Gruen 21". The movements are marked "Cincinnati" or "US" instead of the usual "Switzerland."

Fred Gruen retired in 1940 and died in 1945, and his brother George died in 1952. In 1953 the Gruen family sold their interest in the company. The same year, Gruen president Benjamin Katz was forced into retirement after a scandal, and in 1954 the company bought out his shares for $2 million USD.

In 1953, the Gruen Watch Company had its highest sales in its entire history.Gruen, Rolex and Aegler

One of the most deeply-held myths about Gruen is that Gruen and Rolex at one time manufactured movements for each other's watches. Both firms did use some of the same movements—the best known examples are the Gruen Techi-Quadron and its twin, the Rolex Prince. In reality, these movements were manufactured by a third company, Aegler, who was a very close neighbor to the Gruen Precision Factory. They were Aegler's biggest customers, and were both large shareholders as well—the full company name at one time was, Aegler, Societe Anonyme, Fabrique des Montres Rolex & Gruen Guild A. Gruen and Rolex both occasionally showed pictures of the huge Aegler factory in their advertising, making the implication that this was a Gruen- or Rolex-owned facility, although ownership at the time was divided among Gruen, Rolex and Aegler itself. Gruen sold their Aegler shares in the 1930s, after they moved all production to the Precision Factory. After this time, Aegler became increasingly tied to Rolex through the sale of stock. Today, the main Rolex building in Biel is the old Aegler factory, and though it is now owned by Rolex, it is still run by the Aegler family.

This article taken from Complete Price Guide to Watches, American Wriswatches, Rolex Wristwatches: Best of Time and Gruen Master Book